Primary Navigation

Hands-On: The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Onyx -

Hands-On: The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Onyx –

When you think of Jaquet Droz, your psyche no doubt goes toward the super conventional. I’m talking robots, nitty gritty finish painting, and old-school gold filigree work. Yet, that’s not everything the brand is about. The Grande Seconde Moon Onyx is verification of this, taking one of the brand’s natural silhouettes, however delivering it in an advanced route with the utilization of a tempered steel case and a spotless onyx dial.

The dial has numerous levels and the chapter rings cast inconspicuous shadows on the onyx ground.

The Grande Seconde family is one of the vital mainstays of Jaquet Droz’s contemporary assortment. There are heaps of various forms of the watch, all assembled by the namesake enormous sub-seconds register. In some cases this register is straightforwardly underneath the hours/minutes dial, framing such a “8” design, and other occasions it’s askew or even coordinated into a tourbillon. Here, you have the most customary design, though the seconds register additionally contains a date complication and a moonphase complication, all in that equivalent, curiously large circle in the lower segment of the dial.

The moonphase marker is precise to one day at regular intervals and 46 days.

The Grande Seconde Moon Onyx begins with a 43mm treated steel case that has a thin, slightly domed bezel that gives the dial a ton of space to move around and offer its expression. I’d say it wears slightly on the little side for a 43mm watch, with the case tightening a piece to the wrist, however it’s as yet an enormous watch and the 13.23mm thickness doesn’t help. The actual dial looks rather basic from the outset, however there are a ton of layers having an effect on everything here. The fundamental dial sits as the base of sorts, with the two metal chapter rings drifting above, projecting unpretentious shadows beneath. I truly delighted in this impact and I think it adds a ton to the visual interest of this watch overall. 

The moon circle is likewise onyx, so it matches the remainder of the dial impeccably. At specific points, it’s hard to see where the different pieces of the dial fit together – they rather seem as though one extensive dark surface. Once more, the impact is truly attractive. On the moon circle sits an itemized moon made of 22k white gold and a couple of stars made of 18k white gold. The stars are Jaquet Droz’s unique seven-pointed assortment and there’s something a little old fashioned about them that adds a little delicateness to an otherwise obvious watch. The moonphase marker is exact to one day in like clockwork and 46 days.

The Jaquet Droz type 2660QL3.

Powering the watch is the Jaquet Droz type 2660QL3, which is a programmed development with a silicon balance spring and bed horns. It has two origin barrels that offer a 68-hour power hold and the development runs in 30 gems. The finishing is suitably present day to fit with the remainder of the watch, with wide, sunray-shaped stripes emanating from the equilibrium and a part of the way openworked winding rotor. To get the exactness of the moonphase capacity to where it is, Jaquet Droz utilizes something they call the “mechanism 135.” This may sound baffling, yet it’s truly a moon circle with 135 teeth that is constrained by a 16-tooth driving wheel. This is definitely not an exclusive Jaquet Droz technology, yet it is ideal to see the brand offer up a higher accuracy moonphase in a watch like this where the complication is a vital piece of what makes the watch special.

On the wrist, the Grande Seconde Moon Onyx wears well for a watch of its size.

Overall, the Grande Seconde Moon Onyx shocked me on the wrist. The utilization of negative space on the dial, the little shadows cast by the chapter rings, and the almost sans numeral breadth makes for something truly striking. As I said, the case wore more modest than I expected, however I discovered the thickness to be a restricting component for me. It’s one of those watches that you truly feel in the wake of wearing it for a brief period. Some will adore this, others will not – it’s actually an individual choice. Esthetically though, even at the HODINKEE office, this is a watch that earns a great deal of comments and “Whoa, what’s that on your wrist?” questions.

The Grande Seconde Moon Silver

The Grande Seconde Moon Ivory Enamel

It’s worth noticing that this watch has two family members as well –  the Grande Seconde Moon Silver and the Grande Seconde Moon Ivory Enamel. Technically talking, these watches are indistinguishable from the Grande Seconde Moon Onyx, they simply have distinctive esthetic medicines. The previous uses a tempered steel case combined with a silver opaline dial, Roman numerals, and heaps of blue accents, while the last beginnings with a red gold case and finishes it off with an iv0ry-shaded grand feu polish dial that additionally utilizes Roman numerals and more tone. As far as I might be concerned, the Onyx form is the most intriguing of the bunch, yet in case you’re searching for something somewhat more customary, you might need to consider one of the two alternatives.

It’s astounding how a basic dial treatment can take a conventional looking watch and cause it to feel so contemporary. 

The Grande Seconde Moon Onyx retails for $17,300, while the Grande Seconde Moon Silver and the Grande Seconde Moon Ivory Enamel retail for $15,200 and $28,900, individually. The onyx rendition is restrictive to Jaquet Droz shops and Swatch Group’s Tourbillon stores, while the others are accessible through the full retail network.

For more, visit Jaquet Droz on the web .