At a utilitarian level, a jump watch ought to be an explicitly straightforward thing. A major moment hand, an obvious seconds hands, a passed time bezel, respectable water opposition, and some lume. Task finished. Whenever said watch turns out to be in titanium with an elastic tie, all the better. A lot further down the rundown of conceivable and alluring complexity would be a tourbillon. But, here we are. With the U50 Tourbillon Diver, Angelus presents something of an existential inquiry to the plunge watch, a contemplated reality that perceives the media of a jump observe yet dismisses the authentic viewpoint of a plunge watch as a tool.
45mm in titanium with an elastic strap.
While it’s conceivable that I am the one offering the existential conversation starters and Angelus is (legitimately) simply messing around with a deconstruction of the plunge watch kind, I’m willing to crawl along the edge of this razor a short time longer. While Angelus isn’t the primary brand to fit a diver with a tourbillon, at whatever point I see a plunge watch with a tourbillon, I feel the fear of postmodernism. Being a defenseless fanatic of hardware divers and their set of experiences in the improvement of jumping and post-war experience, I regret the frequently snake-eating-its-own-tail truth of present day plunge watches. On the off chance that all media has equivalent legitimacy, indeed, put a tourbillon on a jump watch.
Philosophical groans in any case, the Angelus U50 Tourbillon Diver is something fascinating. It is 45mm wide, delivered in titanium, with a skeletonized dial that shows the activities of the development in high help. As such an accepted gesture to the more extensive universe of titanium divers, the U50’s inside plunge bezel is a brilliant blue and yellow, coordinated by the sub-seconds show, and both the hour and moment hands. With a pseudo–super compressor two-crown format, one crown sets and winds the watch while the other pivots the interior passed time bezel.
The skeletonized A-300 Angelus hand-wound movement.
The U50 utilizes an in-house hand-wound development much the same as what we’ve found in the past from Angelus. This development, the Angelus A-300, offers time, sub-seconds, and a one-minute tourbillon at seven o’clock on the dial. 4.3mm thick and ticking at 4Hz, the A-300 has a force save of ~55 hours and is done with a dark ADLC covering. Flanked on the two sides by wide sapphire gems, you can see directly through the 12.5mm thick U50. Should you get a look, I do trust your wrist is prettier than my own.
Intricate subtleties and a 60 seconds tourbillon.
Two crowns, one for time setting, and one for the inner plunge bezel.
To give credit where due, while the U50’S is a major watch, the combination of the titanium case, the pleasantly bended drags, the negative space of the time show, and the elastic lash make for a lot lighter presence than you may anticipate. The scaffolds and wheels catch the light well and I truly like the diver-y utilization of blue/yellow. Given the visual complexity of the dial region, the bigger measuring guarantees commonly solid clarity. They have figured out how to take the multifaceted tasteful of an advanced Angelus (or independent haute horology all in all) and crossed it with components of the jump watch genre.
While surely large and firmly strong, the U50 is comfy on wrist.
Just likewise with Richard Mille and Roger Dubuis’ tourbillon divers, at an item level, I get why Angelus would create the U50. It’s referential to with the style of jumping yet unrestricted by the heaviness of genuine capacity. Like the unavoidable idea of the military stylish in streetwear, while you could take this 300m plunge watch jumping, that is not its expectation. Similarly as I’m certain your camo joggers could endure some light fighting, the U50 is more about an apportionment of the saucy style of experience than as a device of the actual undertaking. From multiple points of view, that puts the U50 in a gathering we could all name “most jump watches.”
It’s enormous, it’s striking, it’s splendidly shaded, and you can keep it on for a dip, or even a plunge, off the rear of your yacht while secured in the moving blues off some southern European shoreline. As a result of the more extensive universe of horological interest, I get it. For the correct sort of watch geek, the CHF 29,700 U50 Diver Tourbillon resembles having treat for supper. As far as I might be concerned, with my profound love for the underlying foundations of hardware items, it’s an engaging if to some degree abnormal recommendation that addresses the actual value of a thing that is without the context that roused its very existence.
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